Fabric appearance inspection includes 4 aspects: Front and back side identification, hairy fiber direction, defective classification and latitude slope. More detailed introduction of the textile fabric appearance inspection as below.
A, Identification front and back side of fabric
Some fabrics are difficult to distinguish between the front and back, so in the garment sewing process, it’s easy to mixed up, resulted uneven color, pattern softened, some serious mistakes will cause obvious color shading, pattern confusion, fabric upside down, affecting the appearance of ready-to-wear garments and hurt the sales.
In addition to the sensory methods, such as by visual and hand-touching, identification is also can be done by analyze the fabric's structure characteristics, color characteristics, special finishing appearance, as well as from the fabric's trademark head and seal.
1. Identification according to the structure of the fabric
(l) Flat-print fabric: the front and back of the fabric of the flat-print edified tissue are same, and therefore there is no difference between the front and back (except for the printed cloth). General flat fabric front is relatively flat and smooth, color uniform clear.
(2) Twill fabric: twill tissue divided into one-sided oblique and double-sided twill. The pattern of one-sided twill is clear and obvious on the front and blurred on the other, and the front of the one-sided fabric is tilted from top left to bottom right, while double-sided is reversed from top right to bottom left.
(3) satin fabric: the front surface is flat and tight, rich in luster, while the back side is like flat or twill, the luster is rather dim. In addition, the satin with more floating points in the front than twill.
2. Identification according to according to the fabric pattern and color
The patterns and color on the front of various fabrics, are normally clear and shinning, the pattern shape and line contours are more fine and obvious, layered, vivid and full of color; On the reverse side, the pattern is fuzzy, the outline is unclear and the color is dark. There are also some jacquard fabrics with unique patterns on the reverse side, and the colors are harmonious and quiet. Therefore, the reverse side is used as the positive material in garment making. As long as the fabric yarn structure is reasonable, the floating length is even and does not affect the use fastness, the reverse side can also be used as the front side.
3.Identification according to the fabric tissue change and and pattern recognition
The pattern of tidwigs, lattes and twigs varies greatly. All the fabric front, generally less floating yarn, stripes, lattices and proposed patterns are more obvious than the opposite, and the line is clear, the outline is prominent, the color is uniform, the light is bright and soft; There are also few fabrics on the opposite side of the pattern is unique and chic, color tone and quiet, so in the garment making use of the opposite side as a positive material.
As long as the fabric yarn structure is reasonable, floating length is uniform, does not affect the use of fastness, the opposite can also be used for the front.
4.Identification according to the fabric cloth edge
General speaking, woven fabric front side is flat and straight, while the opposite with edge curled inwards. Non-woven woven fabric, the front of the cloth edge is relatively flat, the back edge is easy to find the wool of the yarn head. Some high-end fabrics, for example, velvet. There are code or other words woven on the edge of the fabric. The front of the code or text are clearer, obvious, smooth, while the code or text showing at opposite is more blurred.
5. Identification according to appearance effects after special finishing of fabrics
(1) Hair-up fabric: the fabric front stands dense plush. The opposite side is a fluffy-free tissue. The organization is obvious, such as plush, velvet, flat velvet, wicker and so on. Some fabric shaggy is dense, even the woven ground is difficult to see.
(2) Chemically treated pattern with a clear outline on the front, with layers, bright colors, if it is a lint flower, then the velvet plump flat.
6. Identification according to trademarks and seals
The whole fabric factory inspection, generally pasted product trademark paper or instructions, pasted side of the fabric, each end covered with the factory date and inspection seal is the opposite side of the fabric. Unlike domestic sales, fabric made for export are stamped on the front, as well as the trademark head and seal.
B, Identification of fabric hairy direction
Some clothing fabrics, such as wicker, flat velvet, velvet, plush and a variety of velvet, has significant differences in its hairy direction, as called there are 2 directions: Hair-supported and Hair-submissive. In addition, there are significant differences in color as well.
C, Classification of defects
Whether or not, defective standard is important for inspection of fabrics:
1. The fiber is not good and lead to a defective point, called yarn defect;
2. The defects produced when Interweave, called weaving defects;
3. The defect points arising from the process of printing and dyeing, finishing called printing defects.
Slight defects will directly affect the aesthetics, serious defects will damage the strength and wear resistance of the local, so the fabric on the defects should be as far as possible when cutting. If you can not avoid, the defects can be arranged in in-noticeable side, so as not to affect the appearance of clothing and resistance.
D, Identification and correction of the parallel slope
All kinds of color fabric in the weaving and finishing process, due to the mechanical tension and other effects, the fabric surface of the phenomenon of the uneven yarn, collectively referred to as "latitude slope." The latitude slope has the grid slope, the flower slope and the parallel yarn slope, etc. , with the grid slope as the most common, especially in all kinds of plaid velvet more prominent.
The parallel slope of the color fabric is in three forms:
1. One side of the parallel slope: the representation of the fabric of the shape of one end of the high end low bevel.
2. Positive bow parallel slope: the shape of the expression cloth is curved in the middle.
3. Side bow parallel: the curved side (left or right) of the expression cloth is an arc-like concave.
No matter which kind of form, if it was not corrected in advance, after cut and sewing into clothing, it will hurt clothing appearance quality and intrinsic quality, the garment twists and swings unevenly, causing serious quality problems of the finished garment.
There are two ways to correct the parallel slope:
1. Manual correction: Although this method is effective, it is high in labor intensity and slow.
2. Machine correction: the parallel angle correction machine is mostly designed and manufactured by the garment factory themselves. The corrective machine consists of five components, such as bracket, transmission, steam-spraying device, adjustment and adjustment of the pull-latitude device and ironing roller. It is characterized by effort-saving, fast efficiency.